Tendrons de veau provençal

8 to 10 servings.

The “tendrons” of veal is the breast portion that contains the cartilaginous ribs. However any stewing cuts such as short ribs, veal shoulder, shoulder chops or shank are good since they all have some bones and cartilages.  The veal tastes better if it is done 2 or 3 days in advance. Leave it in its sauce and do the last steps just before serving.

3 Tbsp of vegetable oil
4 lb breast of veal (ask your butcher to cut across the lower breast portion to make several strips of equal width)
1-1/2 cup of white wine
1 Tbsp of olive oil
3 onions, sliced
8 carrots, peeled and cut into rounds
4 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (out of season use a can of italian tomatoes – 1 lb 12 oz)
2 sprigs of fresh thyme or a pinch of dry thyme
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
salt and pepper
2 bay leaves
2-16 oz packages of fettucine
1/2 cup of cream

  • Heat the oil in a skillet over high heat.
  • Brown the pieces of veal on both sides.
  • Remove to a large pot and season with salt and pepper.
  • Discard the fat from the skillet and deglaze the pan with the wine and add to the veal.
  • Melt the butter in the skillet and slightly brown the onions.
  • Add to the veal.
  • Add the carrots, tomatoes, thyme, garlic, bay leaves, salt and pepper.
  • Cook gently (at a simmer) 1-1/2 to 2 hours, or until meat is tender.
  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
  • Add some salt and the pasta and cook until tender.
  • Drain the pasta.
  • Bring the cream to a boil in the skillet and reduce for 1 minutes.
  • Add the pasta and sprinkle with parsley.
  • Remove the veal from the pot and set on a serving platter.
  • Strain the sauce through a sieve and reduce if necessary.
  • Pour the sauce over the veal.
  • Serve immediately.

Rôti de veau matignon

The shoulder of veal makes a good roast because it has enough fat to cook without drying out. If you use a boned leg of veal, make sure that you blanch 2 or 3 strips of bacon and lay them over the roast and put some foil all around it while cooking in the oven.  The meat renders enough juice so that you will have a good spoonful per person to moisten the meat.

3 lb roast of veal, boned and tied
4 Tbsp of oil
2 Tbsp of butter
2 carrots, 2 onions (peeled and diced)
1/3 cup of Madeira
bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf and parsley)
salt and pepper

  • Heat the oil in a heavy casserole, large enough for the roast.
  • Dry the roast with paper towels and brown it lightly in the oil on all sides.
  • Remove the roast and discard the oil from the casserole, then melt the butter in it.
  • Stir in the vegetables and the bouquet garni and cook gently for 5 minutes.
  • Add the Madeira wine and boil down rapidly.
  • Return the roast to the casserole and set in the lowest third of the oven.
  • Cook for 1-½ hour.  Baste 2 or 3 times with the juice in the casserole while cooking.
  • Place veal on a platter and keep warm in the turned off oven.
  • Discard strings.
  • Remove all fat from the casserole.
  • Put back on the burner over medium heat and mash the vegetables into the liquid.
  • Add any juice from the reserved roast.
  • Garnish the veal platter with the vegetables.

Soubise

1/4 cup of raw rice
3 Tbsp of butter
1 lb of sliced onions
salt and pepper

  • Melt the butter in a heavy, fire proof casserole.
  • Stir in the onions, add salt and pepper.
  • Stir in the rice (no liquid is added, the onions provide it).
  • Cover and cook in the oven next to the veal, for 45 minutes to 1 hour until tender but not browned.

Escalopes de veau roussillon

To serve 4.

1 lb of eggplants
a little milk
5-6 Tbsp seasoned flour
2/3 cup of oil (approximate)
4 veal scaloppine
2 oz of Gruyère cheese, thinly sliced
¼ cup of grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbsp of butter

Sauce tomate 

2 lb of fresh tomatoes or 1 can of italian tomatoes, chopped
1 onion, sliced
1 glove of garlic
1 tsp of sugar
3 slices of bacon
bouquet garni
salt, freshly ground pepper

  • Make the sauce first.
  • Place all ingredients in a pan and cook over a low heat for 20 minutes or until tomatoes are tender.
  • Sieve the sauce using a vegetable mill in order to obtain a thick purée.
  • Meanwhile cut the eggplants into ½ inch slices.
  • Dust them lightly with salt and put on a wire rack to drain for half an hour, turning them from time to time.
  • Dry on kitchen paper.
  • Dip the eggplants into milk, then into seasoned flour, and fry them quickly in the hot oil.
  • Arrange the fried eggplants in a bottom of a fireproof dish, pour over the sauce and put aside to keep hot.
  • Flatten the scaloppine, trim them into even shapes and dip in seasoned flour.
  • Fry the scaloppine in a little hot oil, allowing approximately 4-5 minutes on each sides, depending on the thickness.
  • Arrange them on top of the eggplants and sauce tomate and cover with Gruyère cheese.
  • Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, dot with knobs of the butter and place for a few moments under hot broiler.

Escalopes de veau chasseur

Allow 2 or 3 scallops per person, depending on the size of the pieces of meat. Veal scallops are cooked quickly and need to be tender and of the palest pink you can find.  Serves 6 people.

12 veal scallops
4 Tbsp of butter
¼ cup of minced shallots
3/4 lb of firm, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (1 cup)
1 garlic, minced
salt and pepper
½ tsp of tarragon
½ cup of white wine
½ cup of brown stock
½ lb of fresh mushrooms
1 Tbsp of lemon juice
2 Tbsp of butter

  • Preheat the oven to 300°F
  • In a heavy skillet, melt the butter and sauté the veal scallops on high heat until brown on both sides.
  • Season with salt and pepper.
  • Remove the scallops to a serving dish and keep warm in a turned off oven.
  • Deglaze the skillet with a little bit of the wine and pour the liquid over the veal.
  • Melt 2 Tbsp of butter and sweat the shallots for 1 minute.
  • Stir in the tomatoes, garlic, seasonings and herbs.
  • Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.
  • Pour in the wine and the brown stock.
  • Boil rapidly for 15 minutes or until the sauce has thickened.
  • Correct seasoning and remove from heat.
  • In a separate skillet, sauté the mushrooms in butter.
  • Add a bit of lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste.
  • Add to the tomato sauce and simmer for a minute.
  • Baste the scallops in the serving dish with the hot sauce and decorate with fresh tarragon or parsley.
  • Serve immediately.

Escalopes de veau à l’estragon

For 6 to 8 persons.  Carrots or mushrooms are good complement to this dish.

If you buy a 1/2 loin of veal and learn to trim it yourself, you will get the best “escalopes” with no muscle separation and all about the same size. They will also cook without curling. Furthermore, the small filet and trimming can be used for a blanquette of veal or a stew while the bones may be saved for veal stock.

12 or more veal scallops
4 Tbsp of butter and 2 Tbsp of oil as needed (plus 2 Tbsp at the end)
3 Tbsp of minced shallots
1/2 cup of dry white wine or vermouth
1 Tbsp of dried tarragon & 1 Tbsp of fresh tarragon or parsley
1 cup of stock

  • Dry the scallops thoroughly.
  • In a skillet saute the scallops without crowding them in very hot, but not burning, butter and oil.
  • Reserve them in a warm plate or oven.
  • Pour all but 2 Tbsp of fat out of the skillet.
  • Discard it if it is burned and add 2 new Tbsp of butter.
  • Stir in the shallots and saute for a minute.
  • Deglaze the skillet with the wine and add the tarragon, reducing the liquid to 2 Tbsp.
  • Add the brown stock and boil until it has reduced and thickened slightly.
  • Off heat, swirl 2 or 3 Tbsp of butter into the sauce.
  • Add the herbs.
  • Arrange the meat on a hot platter, spoon the sauce over the veal and serve.

Côtes de veau aux herbes

Veal chops can come from the rib, loin or shoulder but, of course, the price will vary accordingly.  A simple browning followed by slow cooking with the deglazing liquid from the pan is the best treatment for them.  If there are more than three chops it is easier to finish the cooking in the oven.

6 veal chops about 1 inch thick
salt and pepper
2 Tbsp of butter
3 Tbsp of minced shallots
1 clove of garlic, minced
1/2 cup of dry white wine
tarragon 
1/4 cup of stock
salt and pepper
2 Tbsp of softened butter

  • Preheat oven 350°F
  • Brown the chops in a skillet 2 or 3 at a time.
  • Season and arrange in a casserole.
  • Discard the oil and melt butter in the skillet.
  • Stir in the shallots and cook slightly.
  • Pour in the wine, then add the garlic and the herbs.
  • Simmer for a few minutes.
  • Add this deglazing liquid to the casserole.
  • Bring it to a simmer on top of the stove.
  • Put the casserole in the preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
  • Baste occasionally.
  • Set the chops on a serving platter.
  • Add the stock to the casserole and boil down rapidly.
  • Correct seasoning.
  • Turn off the heat and swirl in the butter by bits.
  • Pour the sauce over the chops.

Blanquette de veau printanière

This is my very favorite dish!  Serves 8 to 10.

2 Tbsp vegetable oil
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 lb veal shoulder cut into 2″ pieces
salt and pepper
2 Tbsp flour
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 cup of dry white wine
1 cup of homemade chicken stock
Bouquet garni
2 Tbsp butter
25 to 30 small onions, peeled
1 Tbsp of sugar
1/2 lb of mushrooms
1/2 cup of cream and 1 egg yolk mixed
1 Tbsp chopped parsley

  • In a heavy casserole or pan, heat the oils.
  • Brown pieces of veal well on both sides, making sure they do not touch each other.
  • Continue until all the veal is browned. Put it in a large casserole.
  • Sprinkle with salt and pepper and the flour.
  • Stir and saute for a few minutes.
  • Add the garlic, wine, chicken stock, bouquet garni and bring to a gentle boil.
  • Reduce heat and simmer gently for 1-½ hours.
  • Meanwhile, melt 1 Tbsp of butter in saucepan and add the onions.
  • After they are slightly brown, sprinkle them with the sugar and sauté a few more minutes.
  • Add to the casserole.
  • In the same saucepan melt another Tbsp of butter, add the mushrooms and cook until all the moisture has evaporated.
  • Add to the casserole.
  • After 1-½ hours make sure the meat is tender.
  • With a slotted spoon gently remove the meat, mushrooms and onions on a serving platter.
  • Reduce the remaining sauce in the casserole, if needed.
  • Remove from the heat.
  • Mix cream and egg yolk and add to sauce. Ladle some of it on top of the meat.
  • Pour the rest in a bowl to pass around for extra.
  • Garnish the platter with parsley and decorate with glazed carrots.
  • Serve rice on the side.

Glazed carrots

  • Cut lengthwise to have sticks about 3 inches long.
  • Simmer in water for 5 minutes.
  • Drain well.
  • In a saucepan melt 2 Tbsp butter, add 2 Tbsp of granulated sugar and the carrots.
  • Sauté for a few minutes.

Blanquette de veau à l’ancienne

Serves 6-8 people.

3 lb of boneless veal in 2 inch chunks
6 cups of chicken stock, home made or canned
2 carrots, cut into chunks
1 large onion, quartered
2 cloves of garlic, unpeeled
2 celery tops
1 leek
bouquet garni, salt, pepper

  • Blanch the veal: in a large casserole, cover the veal with cold water, bring it quickly to a boil, and let simmer for 1 minute before draining it in a large sieve.
  • Wash any residue off the pieces of meat under cold running water, scrub the casserole, and replace the veal in it.
  • Cover the veal with the chicken stock, and supplement the stock with water if necessary.
  • Add the carrots, onion, bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley), garlic cloves, and the salt.
  • Slowly bring the stock to a boil, and skim the surface of any residual scum.
  • Then, reduce the heat to barely simmer the liquid.
  • Cook partially covered for 1 to 1-1/2  hours, or until tender.
  • While the veal is simmering prepare the white onions and the mushrooms.

The vegetables

20 to 25 small white onions, peeled and left whole
2 Tbsp of butter
2/3 cup of chicken stock
1 tsp of lemon juice, 1 lb of mushrooms, sliced

  • In a large saucepan you can cover tightly, heat together 2 Tbsp of butter and the stock.
  • Slowly bring this to a boil and, when the butter has melted, add the onions.
  • Cover the pan, reduce the heat, and simmer for about 30 minutes.
  • Turn the onions every now and then.
  • If the stock cooks away, add a little more from the veal in the casserole.
  • When the onions are cooked – pierced easily with a pointed knife – remove them from the pan with the slotted spoon, and set them aside in a bowl.
  • In the same pan, stir 1 tsp of lemon juice in the remaining stock, bring it to a boil, and add the mushrooms.
  • Cook them briskly for 5 minutes, remove then from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside with the onions.
  • Pour any remaining liquid into the simmering casserole with the veal.

The velouté sauce

3 Tbsp of flour
3 Tbsp of butter
2 large egg yolks
1 cup of cream

  • When the veal is cooked, remove all the pieces from the casserole and strain the stock into a saucepan (press down on the vegetables).
  • Carefully drain the veal, onions and mushrooms of any juices collected in their bowls and add to the stock to be reduced as well.
  • Bring the stock to a boil and reduce to 2 cupfuls to use for the velouté sauce.
  • Melt the butter and stir the flour into it.
  • Cook this roux over low heat for a minute without browning it.
  • Then, slowly add the two cups of reserved veal stock.
  • Raise the heat and bring the sauce to a boil.
  • Lower the heat and let cook for 5 minutes longer.
  • Meanwhile mix together the egg yolks and the cream and pour into the sauce.
  • Season to taste.
  • Place the meat and the mushrooms and onions in a clean casserole.
  • Pour the sauce over them.
  • Gently but thoroughly mix.
  • Heat once more and sprinkle with parsley.

Veal stock

Brown veal stock (fond brun de veau).

10 lb of veal bones
2 onions, quartered
2 carrots, cut in half
2 stalks of celery 1
leek, cut in half
2 tomatoes, quartered
1 bouquet garni
about 1 gallon of water.

  • Preheat oven 450°F.
  • Arrange the bones in a large roasting pan and brown on all sides, turning as necessary.
  • Brown the carrots and onions for the last 20 minutes of the roasting time.
  • Transfer to a large stockpot and add the rest of the vegetables and the bouquet garni.
  • Deglaze the roasting pan with some water after discarding the fat.
  • Add this liquid to the stockpot and pour in enough water to cover all the bones by about 2 inches.
  • Bring to a boil.
  • Then reduce and continue cooking for at least 6 hours, skimming and degreasing as necessary.
  • Strain off the liquid and reduce it by half in a clean pot.
  • Cool and store in covered containers or continue to reduce by half (demi‑glace) or to a syrup (glace).